Wednesday, 4 February 2009

Angkor Wat - Land of varied hues

SamayLive.Com
Wed, 04 Feb 2009

Ranjita Biswas:An image that had remained with me from adolescence when I saw its astonishing splendour in a spread in the Life magazine. And now I was on my way to realise a dream long cherished, to witness the thousand years old temple complex built by Khmer artisans under Hindu kings, the 'Varmans' who once ruled here in Cambodia.

We were advised by experienced travellers to take a bus to Siem Reap, getaway to Angkor Wat, from capital Phnom Penh rather than by the river route via the Mekong. Unless there's loads of time, of course! So I and my friends booked a ride by a 'luxurious' bus with promises of breakfast served on board. Well, the bus was comfortable enough, but don't bank on the breakfast to fill your tummy; they were two puny un-tasty chicken sandwiches. It's better to carry along own food.

Anyway, we travelled on a reasonably good road with wats (temples) and rice fields, most of them bare now after the harvest, for company. The bus made a welcome break for tea in between. People were buying some concoction looking like halwa. Language being a problem, I just decided to buy some to appease my hunger. It turned out to be a sweet made from potato, hot and delicious.

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1992, Angkor Wat has been going through a multi-national restoration effort for many years now. The western world woke to this astonishing archaeological wonder after French naturalist Henri Mouhot's drawings and notes were published in 1863.

Naturally, we were in a hurry to see Angkor Wat, half an hour ride away. The complex needs at least three days to explore and we had only one and a half. So we decided to have a 'working' lunch. The driver wisely took us to a patisserie called 'Blue Elephant', a favourite with expats. Its reputation is well-deserved. They were some of the best I have ever tasted, and that includes Paris! Cambodia was a French colony for a long time and its influence is evident in its colonial architecture in the cities, and yes, bakery items. My first impression of Angkor Wat as the elongated domes of representing Mount Meru came to view was the oft-repeated word: awesome. To think this vast temple-residences were built during 8th -12th century! We walked up the long carriage-way across a moat to reach the central temple where there's a huge idol of Vishnu in the centre who is worshipped regularly. As evening approached, the temple walls took on a darker hue and we were asked to leave the premises.

Cambodia has a rich tradition of dance and music which was smothered under the dictator Pol Pot regime. Today, hotels and restaurants often put up shows for visitors like us. We bought tickets ($ 12) for a show at Angkor Mondial restaurant which included a buffet dinner with multiple cuisines to choose from (drinks extra). The lilting music, the episodes from Ramayana enacted by graceful dancers, fishermen's folk dance, wrapped up a magical day.

Next day, we had to get up at 4 O' clock in the morning in order to witness the sunrise over the temple. It was still dark when we arrived but many tourists were already teeming the complex, thankfully without talking loudly. We waited on the steps of one of the temples. A vendor came to sell tea and coffee. More than the sunrise, it was the 'feel' of the place, that the Khmers must have witnessed it the same way nearly a thousand years ago, the temple shikhars silhoutted against the gradually pinking sky, that created a special aura.

With daylight we explored the temple, the exquisite Khmer art carvings , the famous samudra manthan (churning of the sea for amrit), etc. The day was already getting hot even though it was December. With a quick breakfast at one of the restaurants we were off to Angkor Thom, the other big complex, a city actually for Khmer kings, built by Jayavarman VII. The faces at the gates, rock-cut huge Shivas looking to the four directions are awe-inspiring. This major complex even has a leper temple with a statue of Yama, the god of death with the legend that one of Angkor kings was a leper. The elephant terrace is also reminiscent of Indian temples.

Well, there's so much one can take at one go and we were back in town. Don't miss the delicious pineapple slices the vendors expertly chop for you.The Old Market in the heart of the town is a good hunting ground for curios and Cambodian silk. A bit touristy but shopkeepers, mostly women, are gentle and not aggressive saleswomen at all and it's pleasure to shop here. Bargaining is expected but things are quite cheap. They also accept payment in US dollar.

The evening in the town can be quite relaxing exploring 'downtown'. The Red Piano (do the people here like colours so much?) is a good spot to relax and eat. I had 'Amok' the local favourite, fish cooked in coconut milk in the kernel itself and served with rice. Yummy! They also have a good vegetarian selection. The street running along was alive with music and chatter in variety of languages.

Walking around the streets lined with street food stalls, we suddenly discovered a Night Market. With stalls under thatched roofs and on pebbled laness, where many NGOs display their wares, it was interesting to explore and buy souven.(Sahara Time)

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