Forty-eight hours in Cambodia

A must-see ... statues at Cambodia's fabled Angkor Wat temple complex / AAP

Rich history ... Angkor Wat is thought to have been constructed as a Hindu temple between AD 1113-50 / Reuters

Take a break ... Angkor's temples are quite spread out so hiring a remorque-moto is almost a must / AFP

Phnom Penh - Why Siem Reap and Phnom Penh? Siem Reap is the gateway to the temples of Angkor, including the awesome Angkor Wat. With the possible exception of Burma's Bagan temples, you probably won't see anything as atmospheric and extraordinary in the region or in your lifetime.

Unlike Bagan, Siem Reap is easily reached. It's also in the throes of a luxury hotel building boom so there is no shortage of comfort when you return from a hot day exploring. Fortunately, the town has kept its laid-back charm and is an excellent place to relax. Phnom Penh has few of the charms of Siem Reap but it's a great place for a one-night stopover.

What is there to see and do? In short, far more than you could possibly fit into one weekend. Angkor, the glory of the Khmer civilisation, which shaped Cambodia from the 9th to the 14th centuries, covers a vast area and has around 100 temples.

A two-night break may only give you one full day in Angkor in which case you might want to limit yourself to Angkor Wat and a second temple, probably the breathtaking Ta Prohm ­ a temple swallowed up in jungle with the roots of giant trees embracing its 1,000 year-old walls.

Ta Prohm gives you an idea of how Indiana Jones must have felt hacking through the dense jungles to rediscover these mighty temples as the French colonisers did in the 19th century. The best way to get around the temples is on a tuk tuk-style motorbike for around 15 dollars a day.
Elephant rides are available for 10 dollars each between Angkor Thom and the Bayon temple.

If you spend a night in Phnom Penh en route to Siem Reap, take time to see a darker side of Cambodian history by visiting the Tuol Sleng Museum ­ a high school that became the largest centre for detention and torture under the murderous reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.
The killing fields of Choeung Ek, with its monument of 8,000 skulls, is 15 kilometres from central Phnom Penh.

Where should I stay? If you are coming via one of Asia's hubs consider picking up a package which are the best value, if you are planning to stay in a mid to top-range hotel. A two-night, three-day package (including hotel and return fare) from Hong Kong will cost around 250 to 600 dollars. The Grand Hotel d'Angkor, oozes colonial charm and would cost 300 dollars a night upwards, if you arrived independently, but is included as the top-end option in most packages.

If you prefer somewhere less formal, the Angkor Villa and La Residence d'Angkor are good options. In Phnom Penh, stay at the Raffles if you can, or the Billabong if you want a cheaper option.

What shouldn't I miss? You'll only ever see Angkor Wat once and it's a memorable sight ­ so make the most of it. Catch your first glimpse at sunrise before the crowds arrive. Save your shopping for Phnom Penh and visit the huge Psar Tuoi Tom Pong, commonly known as the Russian Market and it has everything.

What one piece of advice would you give to a first timer? Be prepared for beggars, particularly children in Siem Reap. Have one pocket stuffed with small notes so that you can buy something inexpensive without attracting a hoard of hangers-on by pulling out a wad of 100 dollar bills to buy a postcard.

How do I get there? Flights to Cambodia will most likely involve a change-over, if you are coming longhaul. In that case, it may be worthwhile shopping for a cheap deal to Bangkok, Hong Kong or Singapore and arranging an onward flight or package to either Phnom Penh or Siem Reap from there.

Dragonair (Hong Kong), Thai International, Bangkok Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Vietnam Airlines and Malaysia Air all fly into Phnom Penh.

Vietnam Air and Bangkok Airways also fly to Siem Reap while Siem Reap Airways operates between Hong Kong and Siem Reap. You can hop between the two Cambodian cities via a domestic flights or take a fast boat for around 25 dollars each way. Cambodian Embassies are few and far between so visas can be issued on arrival.