Photo by: Tracey SheltonA durian vendor waits for customers in Phnom Penh.
Written by Lee Say Lor
Monday, 22 June 2009
YES, it is that time of the year when an extra "aroma" will linger in the air in steamy Phnom Penh, when much drama will unfold over choosing the right fruit: The fruit that can inspire anything from throes of ecstasy to intense disgust takes centre stage.
How one likes one's durian is a very personal choice.
Coming from Malaysia, we like the flesh on the soft side; hence the fruit is only harvested after it drops. In contrast, Cambodians, who like the durian flesh hard, pluck the fruit straight from the tree.
The taste can range from sweet to bitter, and some fruit even exhibits fermented overtones.
The colour of the flesh (not always an indicator of the taste) ranges from almost white to bright golden yellow.
The texture can be hard, like hard cheese, or creamy dryish or creamy gooey. If it happens to be a bit runny then the fruit is overripe.
No fruit other than durian can evoke such intense emotions. From the time durian is chosen until it is eaten, it is surrounded by much suspense and drama [I am not even touching on durian-related accidents and injuries].
Unlike in Cambodia, where the fruit is simply sliced open, in Malaysia it is pried opened without cutting into the flesh. Sometimes it can be an intense struggle to open one, and may require two people to pull it apart.
The most eagerly awaited part is when the flesh is revealed, and this is greeted with many exclamations.
Then a session of poking takes place to test the softness of the flesh. After that comes the tasting, when a dreamy expression may take over the look on a face and various sounds of pure bliss may be made if the taste matches expectations.
To the uninitiated, everything about the fruit is a challenge.
First, how do you choose a good fruit? Knowing the cultivar and where the fruit is grown can help, but you still should avoid one that is not ripe, or overly ripe, or one that has a big seed with thin flesh.
There are many theories on how to choose a good durian, but none are foolproof.
It is first judged by its size and shape. Then one is selected, and the spikes are studied to see the size and their distance apart. Then, holding it by the stem, its other end is sniffed. Next, it is held close to the ear and shaken to check for the sound or lack of. Some will lightly brush their nails over the spikes to hear the sound this makes.
A properly ripened durian can be opened fairly easily. Study the fruit closely, and you can see lines running down the its skin lengthwise. Stick the tip of a strong blade - some even use a screwdriver - into the opposite end to where the stem is.
Use your other hand to hold the fruit steady (it will help to wear a thick glove or hold a piece of really thick cloth). Twist and turn the blade to pry it open along the two lines.
Once you get it to gape open, put both hands in and grabbing each side firmly, use brute force to pull it apart. Remove all the fleshy segments from the sections, then press down on both sides of the open part of the fruit to open up the other section.
If necessary, insert a thumb or finger along the dividing line to facilitate the process. Continue until all sections are empty.
Next, hold your nose and enjoy the taste and texture.
But honestly, part of the enjoyment of the fruit is the smell. A scientist in Thailand has successfully developed an odourless cultivar that is pending approval from the Ministry of Agriculture. It will never be a hit with the locals.
The Javanese believe the durian has aphrodisiac qualities; hence an Indonesian saying, durian jatuh, sarong naik, or literally "durian falls, sarong goes up".
Of such high regard is the fruit that a popular Malay metaphor durian runtuh (fallen durians) is used to mean "an unexpected windfall".
Naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace wrote in 1856 "...to eat Durian is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East to experience..." Here you are in the East.
What are you waiting for? Tis the season ... I dare you, experience.
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