Khmer spring rolls
Fish amokvia CAAI News Media
With claims of being the only Cambodian eatery in Singapore, Khmer Delight is a much welcome addition to our ethnic food scene
Feb 06, 2010
KHMER fare often gets dismissed with the proverbial "similar to Thai food but less spicy and tasty". While there's nothing glaringly wrong with the statement, it is, at best, simplistic; at worst, mildly offensive to Cambodians.
So, imagine how my curiosity was piqued after chancing upon three-week-old Khmer Delight in Siglap. It's a first-time venture into the food and beverage business for owners Andrew Tay, a Singaporean who had worked in Cambodia for 10 years, and his Cambodian wife, Alicia.
The atmosphere is convivial, and I heard Khmer spoken at the table opposite mine. More Cambodian families gradually streamed in for a weekend lunch, which I thought must be a sign of the food's authenticity.
Even the friendly wait staff were Cambodians, young natives studying here. Interestingly, a Malaysian chef who had trained in Phnom Penh helms the kitchen.
Still, Alicia supervises to ensure the style and standard of the cuisine are met.
"Our fish soup, for example, is always lime green, she explained.
"And some of our ingredients, such as lemongrass leaves, are sourced from Cambodia, as I find the ones available here aren't of the same quality."
The menu is extensive, with more than 30 items including soups, salads, meat and seafood dishes on offer. The unusual banana blossom salad ($6.90) is a zesty starter of shredded banana flowers tossed with prawns and herbs such as mint in a mildly sweet and sour dressing.
I could see how those used to the heavier, more tantalising taste of Thai salads might find this a little underwhelming.
But I can't see them complaining much about the traditional and popular fish amok ($9.90 for a sizeable piece that's good for two to share). Similar to our local otak, it is curried fish mix steamed instead of grilled in banana leaves. I liked how the mackerel chunks weren't drowned in spicy flavours; relying instead on the fragrant mix of coconut milk, lemongrass and prahok (a traditional fermented fish paste).
"Back home we use freshwater fish we get from the river, but you really can't do that here," said Alicia.
Looking at the menu, pork apparently features heavily in Cambodian cuisine, evident in staples such as crispy deep-fried spring rolls ($3.90 for four pieces) filled with minced pork and yam. The tender star anise pork ribs ($15.90, serves two to three small eaters) is another speciality that should also prove popular with locals despite its bitter-sweet gravy.
Desserts, too, seem to share similarities with Thai cuisine. The pumpkin custard ($3.50) had the same sweet creaminess underlie by velvety coconut milk.
Evidently, it's hard to draw a clean line between where Cambodian food starts and where Thai food begins. But Khmer cuisine is noticeably milder. In fact, chillies, I learnt, have never been featured heavily in Khmer recipes since ancient times.
Alas, it would be nice to see more information about the cuisine on the menu. But, no doubt, with the opening of Khmer Delight, the reputation East Coast has for being a foodie's paradise just got another boost. Serene Thia
Khmer Delight
Where: 922 East Coast Road
Telephone: 6449 1529
Opening hours: 11.30am to 10pm (Tue to Thur); 11.30am to 10.30pm (Fri to Sun). Closed on Monday.
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